Driskill's study in contrasts keeps quality superb
By Dale Rice, Austin American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
October 13, 2005
Looks great. Tastes even better.
That could be the motto for the Driskill Grill under executive chef David Bull, who continues to ply Austin with extraordinary cuisine that is as artful as it is delectable
For Bull, presentation and preparation are equally important in each dish. He never sacrifices visual concerns for gastronomic considerations, or vice versa. Consequently, he triumphs every time one of his creations enters the dining room.
In one of his long-running dishes, the Bandera quail ($12), Bull begins by stuffing the tiny birds with chicken mousse made with poblano peppers and onions. He then hot-smokes the bird quickly to render a crisp exterior while retaining moisture in the meat and then finishes it in the oven.
Sliced for the plate, the quail is served with orange-and-coriander curd in an egg cup, which is topped with Patrón tequila granita, and garnished with micro cilantro (a tiny version of the full-blown plant). Together, the smoky fowl, sweet curd and sour granita permeate the senses in pure delight.
The scallop appetizer ($16), another of his enduring dishes, also pulls together a wide range of disparate flavors. The pistachio-crusted scallop is pan-seared, producing a crisp surface on the tender shellfish. It is served with chanterelle mushrooms, a truffled herb salad (a mix of micro greens, parsley and chives) and a truffle-scallop quenelle, a dumpling made of scallop mousse poached in fish stock. Here, the sweetness of the scallop contrasts with the bitterness of the greens and the earthiness of the mushrooms, forming another union of enjoyment.
For a mouthful of flavors, Bull's Texas chop salad ($14) combines Romaine lettuce, roasted red bell pepper, fried blue corn tortilla chips, red onions, hard-boiled eggs, Maytag blue cheese, smoked bacon, diced avocado and blue cheese dressing. It is assembled in a ring mold to form a tower of salad, with avocado relish and fried plantain chips dusted with ancho chile powder on the side.
These sophisticated offerings are supported by impeccable service. (Would the University of Texas School of Law please admit my server, whose enthusiasm for and knowledge of food are gratifying, so the city can keep her for another three years? Pretty please.) Her description of the duck could persuade even the most hardened beef-eater to alter his dining patterns.
For the waterfowl, Bull pan-fries the duck breast ($34) to crisp the skin and then fans it on the plate with sunchoke (Jerusalem artichoke) purée and braised iceberg lettuce topped with sunflower sprouts. The heavenly sauce, an apple and raisin hollandaise, emphasizes the richness of the duck, while the sprouts, lettuce and sunchokes counter with a lightness.
Bull's newest entree, the lamb ($38) also plays temptingly off of contrasts. The lamb, with its rich, gamey flavor, is crusted with black pepper and mint that bring a spiciness to the dish. The meat is served with carrot risotto, caramelized shallots and roasted cubes of carrots, which all contain a sweetness.
These dishes, which carry such elegance in their composition, are at home in the lovely dark-wood dining room in the historic Driskill Hotel.
Finally, the work of executive pastry chef Mark Chapman closes the meal on a high note befitting the rest of the cuisine. His milk chocolate panna cotta ($9) is a creamy version of the traditional Italian dessert, which he augments with a burnt orange-white chocolate crema (introducing a citrus note) and walnut fritters (for a textural crunch).
The intense experience, though, comes with the Bûcheron cheesecake ($9). The cheesecake, made with French goat cheese, had a unique strong flavor that was offset by the brightness of the morel cherries on the plate. Then decadence slipped in, with a chocolate marquise, basically a flourless torte covered with ganache.
Those bitter (from the chocolate) and sweet (from the cherries) elements recalled the contrasts of the entire meal. Only one thing had no culinary opposite: the talent of Bull, Chapman and company.
Driskill Grill
604 Brazos St.
(512) 391-7162
Hours: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners
Wheelchair access: Yes
Wine: 30 by the glass ($8-$22), 410 by the bottle ($32-$1,316)
Rating: *****
Photos: Matt Rourke, Austin American-Statesman
From top left: The Driskill Grill encrusts lamb with black pepper and mint and serves it with carrot risotto.
Right: The Bûcheron cheesecake, right, is made with French goat cheese and morel cherries and served with a chocolate marquise.
