Driskill Chef Brings a World of Flair to the Table
By Dale Rice, Austin American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Sept. 23, 2004
It's fascinating to watch a young chef evolve. Refinements appear. Emphasis changes. Presentation matures. Dining at the Driskill Grill over the past five years has offered a bird's-eye view of a chef who is arguably one of the finest talents in the country.
During that time, particularly the past year, Driskill executive chef David Bull -- selected by Food & Wine magazine as one of the Top 10 young chefs in America in 2003 -- has put the Southwest behind him and moved into the international arena. At the Driskill Grill earlier this month, a strong regional vein no longer ran through the menu. While appetizers were rooted in the region, there were no entrees (such last year's jumbo shrimp with an orange-tomatillo sauce and pulled pork enchilada) reflecting that influence. For the most part, the Southwest has been replaced by the flavors of Asia and Europe.
"My cuisine is ever-evolving," Bull said last week. "I tried to have a little Southwestern, but I didn't want to be known as a Southwestern chef."
Now his philosophy is centered on the flavor of the central ingredient, making sure the other components augment but never overshadow it. "My passion derives from simplicity, from highlighting the natural beauty of the product," he said.
In two of the appetizers, he sent Europe and the Far East to the table. A pan-seared scallop ($16) was crusted with ground pistachios and served with a chanterelle mushroom puree, a scallop-and-black-truffle quenelle (a light dumpling) and an herb salad of parsley leaves, chives and chervil with truffle oil.
In a gorgeous presentation (with flavor to match), the beef tartare ($16) -- raw, ground tenderloin infused with Asian elements -- formed a molded square that was topped with caviar and sesame-crusted oysters. It was garnished with a micro tat soi salad, Japanese hot mustard and strands of fried spaghetti that supported a fried lotus root chip.An exquisite crab salad ($18) fused South America and France. The shellfish, mixed with fresh hearts of palm and a Champagne aioli, was presented in a wonton cup and garnished with caviar and micro celery.
That same approach -- multiple elements centered on a key flavor -- also was evident in the work of executive pastry chef Mark Chapman. His chocolate tasting ($9) featured a Guanaja caramel crunch bar, Jivara malted ice cream and a Guayaquil crème brûlée in a chocolate lover's trio that was as sophisticated as it was enticing.
Chapman's caramelized pecan custard ($7) offered a tantalizing twist on traditional crème brûlée. The toasted-pecan custard was presented in a Florentine cup, accented with pomegranate sorbet, black tea syrup and a most unexpected partner: cinnamon tapioca.
An iced facet also starred in one of Bull's entrees, monkfish tail ($32). The fish was braised in ice wine (a late-harvest, sweet German wine) and served on a fennel-potato puree with shredded ham hocks, fennel fronds, an ice wine reduction sauce and a scoop of frozen ice wine.
For the crisp duck breast ($34), Bull delivered it -- the elements divided between two plates -- with Jerusalem artichoke puree, sunflower sprouts, braised iceberg lettuce and an apple-raisin mousseline sauce.
Those entrees were as artistically presented and artfully balanced as any main course item you'll find in Texas, proving that Bull still stands among the best.
However, there is another competitor who gives the chef a run for his money: the David Bull of one, two and three years ago. The previous Bull's dynamism of flavor has yielded to the new Bull's shades of subtlety. Whether that evolution is progress remains to be seen.
Driskill Grill
604 Brazos St.
(512) 391-7162
Hours: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners
Wheelchair access: Yes
Wine: 30 by the glass ($8-$22), 400 by the bottle ($26-$1,208)
Rating: *****
Photos: Ralph Barrera, Austin American-Statesman
From top left: Chef Bull's Crab Salad Fuses the Tastes of Asia and Europe.
Right: the Rack of Lamb is Artistically Presented.
Right bottom: Desserts such as the Strawberry Shortcake Complete the Meals on a Strong Note.
Bottom: Troy Miller gets ready for the first customers.
